Seachem Cuprimine is the superior copper treatment.
To treat most parasites in Marine systems, consider copper a good choice.
Copper is not be used in Marine systems containing Sharks, skate or Rays, nor should the system have, or ever be intended to have, Invertebrates like crabs, and anemones. Sponges and corals also perish in even the lowest copper levels. So forget it for reef tanks.
Care should be taken to measure the copper concentration while adding it and daily thereafter. You will be surprised at how it drops after addition, and how you need to keep adding it for a few days to get that 0.2 ppm level.
Test copper 2x daily when treating with this dangerous chemical. Do not add any more when the concentration crests 0.15-0.2 ppm.
When you are tired of the copper, and your fish have been well for a while, then add Carbon to the system filter to remove the carbon. Carbon should be run for a month to collect the copper that slowly leaches BACK out of the substrate and corals skeletons decorating the tank.
Carbon is accused of dumping phosphates into the water, so maybe a resin that binds phosphates is indicated, I have never worried about it. I am not a reef keeper, and never will be.
Copper should be kept in for a minimum of 2 weeks to stop sensitive parasites like Cryptokaryon. As a side note, Copper suppresses the activity of immune cells in fish, and is hard on filter bacteria, upsetting DeNitrification if concentrations get too high.
If you must avoid copper because you have sensitive species or specimens in the system, then consider Freshwater dips for the affected fish.
Enter your email address for a free PDF of this article including its images.Enter your Email Address
My Favorite Amazon Recommendations
Items and content will not show in "Reader View" check your browser.
PraziPro for Flukes
Buy Some Good Koi?
Best Food, Ever
Pro Air 60 Aerator is a VERY high output air pump pushing my whole fish room (17+ drops), and I have one at home driving everything there, and I have one as a back up.
Topical For Koi and Pond Fish Ulcers
Koi Health & Disease
I have over ten of these Titanium Heaters in my fish room and at home. They're a paradigm shift in aquarium heating. They're titanium and 400W for under $30! Whaaaaaaaaat?
CyroPro by Hikari is safe and easy for Anchor Worms and Fish Lice.
Whatever heaters you use, back yourself up with a temperature controller, it'll turn on, and off your heaters. If your heater seizes "on" at least the thermostat will stop a tragedy.
LifeGuard by Tetra is a tablet version of a tame 'chloramine-t' or 'halamid' compound that's easy to get and good on bacterial infections, in baths.
For me, filtration-of-choice
Rubber sided, round, nettable tanks
1200 Watt heater, on a thermostat held securely above the waterline, works GREAT as a large tank heater. That's all I'll say because there's risk of electrocution and all that. But then, even in a bucket you could get killed. Sound like fun?
What Does Ajax Eat?