I’ve answered this question a thousand times and never wrote anything down ha ha ha ha. This article answers all possible quesstions from what to feed, how much to feed, what brands to feed, when to feed and how many times a day to feed among other concerns. It’s downloadable or read online. Continue reading Feeding Puppies (Exhaustive, Complete)
Research seems to be validating more and more of Linus Pauling’s hypotheses about Vitamin C (ascorbate). Linus Pauling won the Nobel Prize, twice. Continue reading Vitamin C Ascorbate for dogs
Well, never, if you’re a retired Human Dentist because human dentists are veterinary experts now, because they read an article.
How to Feed a Dog In One Page
So when my clients come in, the single most common physical exam “defect” I find is the dog’s weight. And the thing is, they’re quadripeds which means they bear a lot of weight straight ACROSS the back and not up-and-down like we do.
And they’re not gifted with endless spinal health so “He can’t get up” is the death knell for the big dogs and DCM / airway embarrassment is the end of a lot of toy breeds – BOTH mitigate by weight.
So how does LEPTIN play in this? Learn below.
How To Get Little Dogs To Chew Stuff.
It’s so common to see little dogs with terrible teeth. And I found something that a lot of little dogs will actually chew. For example, to find something that a YORKIE will chew is miraculous.
What’s the problem with terrible teeth?
Diabetes III Insulin for a Fractious Pet
A mask may be necessary. Racing muzzles are pretty easy to put on. There are lots of kinds of masks.
Some people are like “Nuts to this, I know she has a right to complain but I’m not getting bitten over this” and let their dogs go. Depending on the ‘battle’ it is, I could be aligned to that thought process.
Folks sometimes call the office looking for something they can do for their dog til it can get seen, or over the weekend, or just IN CONJUNCTION with a standard treatment.
And they ask about AZO, AZO Standard. Which is FINE to ask about except it turns out, the compound in AZO STANDARD is toxic to dogs.
Azo Cranberry, on the other hand, can be soothing, and it makes it harder for bacteria and inflammation to occupy the bladder and urethra.
Currently, Azo Cranberry isn’t made with Xylitol (it’s been years since manufacturers used Xylitol in anything that was possibly going to be used for dogs and cats. They’ve gone to sorbitol for the most part but MAKE NO ASSUMPTIONS and look. Xylitol can be toxic to dogs.
These are Azo Cranberry gummie chews and perhaps they'd be better taken by pets? The tablets may be better suited to embedding in peanut butter, cheese or your favorite form of pill disguise.
This is the tablet version. You can use "the adult dose" per 50 pounds of dog. That means if the 12 to adult dose is 2 tabs twice a day, go with that. If you're treating a little dog, consider quarters to halves. Still, the margin of safety on 'pure cranberry' is high.
I would add, that if some dog-breeder message board is running off telling people to use "just any" Azo, or they're recommending another Azo, (for example the one with the extra chemistry in it) AND you try it, AND it works and doesn't wreck your dog's kidneys or mentation, please let me know. That is COMMONLY a way I learn new things, is treating things the breeder message boards cause, SOMETIMES for better, SOMETIMES for worse.
Current thought on dog training is never to tell your dog NO.
If he’s savaging a small child, you have to WAIT TIL HE ISN’T and then reward the STOPPING – not scold or discipline the ATTACKING – because that would negatively impact his stress level and his self-esteem.
Peeing on the floor? Settle in and discuss his actions, help him understand how that impacts others – DO NOT TELL HIM “NO” – What you do according to some current thoughts and studies is REWARD the “not doing the bad thing”.
Never, EVER tell your dog “No”
It’s better for a dog’s self esteem and future relationships.
When he’s done pooping or peeing on your floor, or tearing up the cushions on your sofa WAIT UNTIL HE STOPS AND REWARD THE STOPPING. Otherwise he could develop ‘daddy issues’.
Think I’m kidding? Read This
What is FOS and Why Should I Care?
FOS stands for “Fructo-Oligo-Saccharides” and it’s pure “inulin” – (not insulin lol)
Inulin is the ‘active ingredient” in all the cholesterol-lowering-good-gut-germ-growing-probiotics in the plant kingdom. Black beans, canned pumpkin, sweet potato, etc.
It turns out, to maintain a decent quality poop for most indoor dogs, “FOS” is great.
Gluten free and powerfully bio active in the gut, FOS slows an irritable bowel, and activates a stale one.
Question: Is FOS better than ‘canned pumpkin’?
Answer: Not really better than canned pumpkin, but FOS powder is less bulky and it’s easier. Also more economical.
Question: What is FOS Made of?
Answer: When FOS appeared on the market it was made with Chicory Root. It’s still made with Chicory Root but quite often, it also comes from “Jerusalem Artichoke” and tbh you couldn’t tell the difference because it’s both a white powder that looks like coffee creamer and has a very faint, slightly sweet taste.
Question: How do you use FOS in canine feeds?
Answer: I use 1 tsp per 15 pounds of dog sprinkled in each feeding. IF the dog gets really gassy, or somehow (improbable) ends up with a loose(ish) stool, you’re giving too much. If the dog isn’t gassy at all and the stools are “better than ever” then you’re doing it right.
FOS is cheap.
How Dogs Are Supposed to Eat
- A puppy eats BIG
- A stray eats BIG
A normal dog eats dry dog food with little interest, may even skip meals.
You have to add something to the dry food to keep them eating ‘well’ at every feeding, but then they go past “lean” and into fat.
A dog’s waist should be exactly 75% of the diameter of the chest*.
- A 12 inch chest should have a 9 inch waist.
- A 20 inch chest should have a 15 inch waist.
- A 30 inch chest should have a 23 inch waist.
*exceptions exist in greyhounds and Salukis which may be < 2/3rds the chest.
When a dog is eventually at a healthy weight it will get PICKY about dry dog food. If we left it at that, our dogs would never get fat.
At that point it’s your call whether you mix something in the dry food to coaxe a lean dog to eat, or simply let her eat per her needs, and stay lean.
“She stopped liking her food. She just wouldn’t eat it.”
This is because they don’t NEED many calories when they’re mostly indoors, lean and healthy.
If I don’t say something about a dog’s overweight it means I gave up. It suggests the dog is an ornament or plaything, not a real creature.
The leading killer of dogs is overweight impacts on heart, airway and joints.
The number one owner error is struggling to convince an overweight dog to eat.
“If I don’t mix something in his dry food he won’t eat it.”
“Yes he will, he’ll regain an interest when he loses a little weight on his bratty hunger strike and he realizes you aren’t going to cave in.”
“No, I let him go hungry for two straight days looking at his dry food, then I gave him his usual milk shake, his peanut butter, Skittles and his bacon, so he wouldn’t die.”
“You just made my entire point.”
Dogs and cats should never have chicken in their butt.
Trying to get your attention with that headline.
How does chicken end up in the butts of dogs and cats? (Alternative title: “Inflammatory bowel disease due to whole protein maldigestion in colon” much less provocative.)
The gastrointestinal tract could be broken into three segments. The teeth and stomach handle the initial preparation of food for digestion, small intestine mashes everything together with digestive enzymes and absorbs all of the vital nutrients, and then the large intestine / colon picks up the water that’s left over in the gooey waste that’s left behind.
Sometimes the process is incomplete, as often happens with dogs and cats as they get older. Their digestive system becomes flimsy because they don’t chew their food as well, or can’t chew their food as well and their stomach acid production tends to decline.
The result of this, is the arrival of whole proteins in that last segment of the G.I. tract
Pieces of whole pieces of chicken as far as the body concerned, but especially as far as the germs are concerned.
The body sees these proteins as foreign invaders (having never seen them in the previous 10 years of the dogs life), and they very definitely recognize them as “not native protein“ so there is an immune response to these proteins and worse, whole proteins that enter the colon simply rot.
They are not digested any further there, so you can see how “having chicken in your butt” so to speak, would create problems. Rotting chicken in a large bowel that is absorbent, not digestive.
There are two ways to fix this, one is to give proteins that are already fully broken down and those are called hydrolyzed proteins and the second method is to give supplemental digestive enzymes including amylase, lipase, and protease.
Supplemental digestive enzymes are inexpensive, they are mixed with food that has had broth or water added to it to get the enzymes going, ideally you would let the food sit for an hour to pre-digest and then you would give it to the dog or cat.
What happens at that point is that the dog no longer experiences whole protein in the colon. The inflammation immune response and bacterial overgrowth ceases to occur in the bowels, and things proceed more normally.
You can thank me later.