I believe in connecting meals and walks in a puppies* mind. The meals incentivize walks. They make “going out” to the bathroom into a super-eager experience.
Puppies should be let out many times a day.
Each time they are let out they should get some food. It adds a “bonus” to running outside immediately on exit from their crate and helps them to “go to the door” when they want to go out. Housebreaking gets easier and faster when you make ‘going out to do their business’ as fun as eating.
When they go out, they get food.
Among the many times they go out, TWO or THREE of those outside trips includes their MEAL.
I don’t encourage feeding the pups in the crate or on the kitchen floor.
Again, trying to incentivize the front door.
How to “Feed” a Puppy on a Meal Walk?
Just put down 1 cup of food per ten pounds and let them have what they want. They’ll eat pretty diligently, and then get distracted and wander off. That’s fine. And you have two choices.
Decision time: You can encourage them to come back and they WILL eat more except then the stools will soften for overeating.
Or you can just pick up the food and let them eat ‘big’ at the next “meal walk”
This is how their day looks, for example:
- 8am Meal Walk (1c / 10 pounds for 5-10 minutes outside) No coaxing to the bowl.
- 10am Snack Walk (Little bit of their dog food in the bowl for a quick walk outside on the grass.(
- 12pm Snack Walk
- 2pm Snack Walk
- 4pm Snack Walk
- 6pm Meal Walk (1c / 10 pounds for 5-10 minutes outside) No coaxing to the bowl.
- 8pm No Food Walk (Start to let the tract empty out for the night)
- 10pm No Food Walk
- Crated for the night.
Keys to note above:
- Walking every 2 hours is an impossible ideal, but does hasten training and minimizes mistakes.
- “Snack” is a little bit of food that doesn’t rate “meal size” not even close.
- “Their dog food” means just that, not a treat or other thing they might come to ‘expect’ and get spoiled.
* The above applies to puppies at least 5 weeks of age.
My Favorite Amazon Recommendations
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This Filter is Good For BIG Dirty Tanks
I've been wrestling with water quality with the turtles. The sponges work GREAT, but in THOSE turtle systems where they eat MICE the poops are bulky. This filter can handle it. In "Tortu's" tank, it's got an 800 gph pump and it rocks.
PraziPro for Flukes
They nailed it. Figured out the solubility and worked out the dosing. It works.
Buy Some Good Koi?
No, this isn't really for the 'high end' collector y'all. But for someone who isn't near a decent garden center, here are "good-to-quite-good" Koi you will like at a very good price. I know these guys personally.
Best Food, Ever
It's made for (and I discovered it for) my Blood Parrots but the small size, intense color enhancers and excellent formulation make it superb young-Koi food. Oh, and it's AMAZING on color-cichlids like Flowerhorn and Blood Parrots.
Pro Air 60 Aerator is a VERY high output air pump pushing my whole fish room (17+ drops), and I have one at home driving everything there, and I have one as a back up.
Formalin Malachite (Not dilute)
There are formalin malachite preparations at 10%, 22% and 37%. There's economy in the concentrates. Hard to get Prime shipping because air transport is curtailed. This is a good value on 32 ounces.
Topical For Koi and Pond Fish Ulcers
I like 7% tincture of iodine because it stains but it's hard to hurt anything with it. Used with a WOVEN gauze, this works well to clean and disinfect a wound. Only use ONCE. Do not 'repeatedly' scrub wounds.
Koi Health & Disease
Hopefully this link takes you to the newest edition by PRIME to get it to your house the fastest.
I have over ten of these Titanium Heaters in my fish room and at home. They're a paradigm shift in aquarium heating. They're titanium and 400W for under $30! Whaaaaaaaaat?
CyroPro by Hikari is safe and easy for Anchor Worms and Fish Lice.
Whatever heaters you use, back yourself up with a temperature controller, it'll turn on, and off your heaters. If your heater seizes "on" at least the thermostat will stop a tragedy.
LifeGuard by Tetra is a tablet version of a tame 'chloramine-t' or 'halamid' compound that's easy to get and good on bacterial infections, in baths.
If you're making medicated feed for a larger group of fish, this will come in handy. Dosing is available in the site.
For me, filtration-of-choice
For aquariums, even small Koi holding facilities or small ponds. These sponge filters are cheap, easy to clean, and they clear hazes very well when used with some Accuclear or similar.
Rubber sided, round, nettable tanks
Make great hospital or quarantine facilities. They SHOULD cost about $200-300 depending on size, but this, lower quality unit (while panned in some reviews) may be good. Don't overfill and make sure it's propped up.
1200 Watt heater, on a thermostat held securely above the waterline, works GREAT as a large tank heater. That's all I'll say because there's risk of electrocution and all that. But then, even in a bucket you could get killed. Sound like fun?
I have several of these ALLIED PRECISION stainless ones that are a couple years old. Working still.
500 grams could be a lifetime supply but it's 50% more than the 100g cost wise, for 500% more amount. Dosing is in the site and the book.
What Does Ajax Eat?
I looked for something well formulated, with meat as the first ingredient. Something UNDER $2/lb and something they could deliver for free. And this was it. He looks and feels great on it.